Restaurant review: Zwickl, Munich, Germany (*****)

One of the many benefits of travel is trying (and hopefully enjoying) new kinds of cuisine that your palette may not have encountered before. Zwickl’s signature meatballs, found near the busy Viktualienmarkets (fresh food markets running daily just south of the city square), were one such culinary experience I was glad to enjoy while in Munich.

Meatballs aren’t a common occurrence at home for me in Australia, with only the now bustling Meatball and Wine Bar flying the meatball flag for its hungry guests in Melbourne. Having tried and tested its tasty but slightly expensive produce, I was eager to see if the German touch resulted in a superior taste.

Only opened in July of this year, Zwickl is still not widely known. It was quite bereft of visitors while we were there, so we were fast to get seated and served. I opted for the Bavarian white sausage (Weiswurst) meatballs with curry honey mustard and hearty vegetable soup, while my friend chose the meatball of baked chicken with potato cucumber salad.

Bavarian white sausage meatballs with curry honey mustard and vegetable soup (left)

Meatball of baked chicken and potato cucumber salad

One more with yumminess: close-up of those bavarian white sausage meatballs!

That delicious (but slightly strong) honey curry mustard

My meatballs were crunchy, succulent and mouth-watering to the taste. Who knew that three small balls of protein could pack so much flavour? The honey curry mustard added an extra zing to the dish, but large amounts made the mouth quite dry. Luckily, a small bowl of hearty vegetable soup was provided, which nicely counterbalanced the bitterness of the mustard.

My friend’s baked chicken meatballs weren’t quite as good as my white sausage ones, but were nicely formed and delicious. The supporting potato cucumber salad was aces though.

Andy’s traveler rating – Zwickl

Address: Zwickl – Gastlichkeit am Viktualienmarkt, Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 2, Munich

Price 5/5:  Very good for the budget, our meals were no more than 8-12 euros.

Service 5/5: Fast and responsive waitress quickly took our order, while the food arrived very speedily.

Decor 5/5: Bright windows and indoor and outdoor seating options provide an ideal location for people-watching while you dine.  

Food 4.5/5: Tasty and wholesome, Zwickl’s food is fresh and different from the other offerings in the city.

Rating: 4.75/5 – Zwickl is a must do if you are in the city and needing a tasty feed.

Note: The rating for Zwickl has been rounded up for simplicity’s sake.

Beer, beer, beer at Oktoberfest!

After yesterday’s enthralling yet exhausting trip to Europa Park, any hopes I had of a relaxing day were dashed as Oktoberfest was on the menu. The world-famous Bavarian tradition was in town, and was not to be missed.

Set in Theresienwiese in the center of Munich, Oktoberfest is a homage to the Bavarian tradition of beer and celebration, with hearty German meals on offer that are traditionally washed down with Oktoberfest beer supplied in always-packed beer tents. Both men and women dress up in traditional Bavarian dress, with the men donning lederhosen and the women sporting dirndi.

Not exactly lederhosen (Bavarian traditional attire for men) but an example of the garb seen adorning the fellas at Oktoberfest

Traditional Bavarian hat (Tirolerhüte) with tufts of chamois hair (gamsbart)

But Oktoberfest isn’t just about alcohol – it’s also host to a large variety of rides, games and Bavarian food (nuts, sausages, sweets, drinks and lollies) that make it otherwise a family-friendly event. It was a unique experience simply wandering the packed grounds (I went on October 2nd, which was a public holiday in Munich) and seeing everything in action. The ride I went on had five upside down loops, yet another scary and exciting memory for the archives!

Sweeeeeeets

We all scream for ice cream!

Traditional German gingerbread is on offer at Oktoberfest – it’s a couple gift for a guy to buy and give to his special lady. Apparently it’s not meant to be eaten but hung up in the house.

No day is complete without a sky high drop!

After seeing the sights on the ground, it was time to move into one of the tents to try out the local brew. That’s where part of the challenge lies in Oktoberfest – tents are in high demand, with a limited number of seats available for the food and drink on offer. Companies (who frequently use Oktoberfest as a team building/celebration activity) and large groups have been known to reserve tables at Oktoberfest more than 6 months in advance to secure a spot. Luckily, with our group of two, we found a seat in one of the tents within 15 minutes.

Joining two groups of locals at our table, we promptly ordered a 1L each of the beer. I looked on in avid interest at the groups of German folk indulging in German food and drink as German music and drinking songs pulsated around us. I even spotted a man dance for five minutes on top of a table!

Being not much of a drinker, it took me a good while to finish off the 1L beer. Beer still isn’t really my thing but it was worth it for the Oktoberfest experience, even though I didn’t understand much of what was said or the music playing from the stage.

The infamous Oktoberfest 1L beer

Attraction details – Oktoberfest

Directions: Oktoberfest be easily reached by U-Bahn, S-Bahn and bus as it takes place within the centre of Munich. For detailed transport information, consult the Deutsche Bahn website.

Admission: Admission is free, so you only pay for the rides, food and beer you consume. Note that the infamous Oktoberfest beer is only available in 1L quantities and is charged at 10 euros each. A bit steep for a beer, but you’re paying for the brand and the atmosphere as well as the beer.

Rating: 4/5 – a great experience for any first-time traveler to Munich. I only downgraded it slightly as I don’t really buy into the heavy drinking culture promoted by Oktoberfest.

Traveler tips:

• Oktoberfest beer is stronger than normal beer, so keep this in mind to pace yourself as you drink. Plenty of inebriated people can be spotted leaving Oktoberfest, having misjudged their capacity for grog.
• Eat your food and take the rides you want to before you consume any beer to avoid unexpected surprises later
• If you want to get a table without a reservation, be prepared to wait. The smaller your group, the greater your chance of getting a table. In any case, arrive early to secure a spot.
• If you aren’t a fan the full strength beer, you can order a radler which is beer mixed with lemonade and is slightly cheaper too.

Have you been to Oktoberfest? What was your experience like?

 

Europe sized fun at Europa Park

For my first day in Munich, a friend suggested we take advantage of the extensive regional train network and journey to Europa Park, a massive theme park that, like its name suggests, is designed according to the different countries of the European Union.

Having arrived at Munich Hauptbahnhof (HBF – Munich Central Station) from Paris two hours later than I intended (after sitting in the wrong position on the 9:30pm train arriving into Munich, which landed me in Strasbourg), I was told that in order to reach Europa Park by its 9am opening time we had to get to the train station at around 3am! As I had only arrived at my friend’s place at around 12:30am and needed time to unpack and have something to eat, I was understandably exhausted and not looking forward to the prospect of even more travel. To throw a spanner into the works, we had missed our bus to the Munich HBF from where our train would depart, forcing us to take a cab instead. Despite the crazy ride, my friend assured me it was worth it, so off we went with no sleep to one of the largest amusement parks in Europe…

The journey there was very disjointed, involving five changes of trains and seven trains in total (Munich to Stuttgart HBF, Stuttgart HBF to Karlsruhe HBF, Karlsruhe HBF to Ringsheim on the way there; Ringsheim to Offenburg, Offenburg to Karlsruhe HBF, Karlsruhe HBF to Sturttgart HBF and Stuttgart HBF to Munchen HBF on the return leg). Added to that, there was another bus we needed to take from Ringsheim to the Europa Park itself. The hop on-hop off journey gave me little opportunity to sleep continuously, leaving me feeling ready to collapse. So much drama before I’d even set foot inside the Park! The kick in the face came when I found out Europa Park is actually 30km away from Strasbourg…meaning I’d basically traveled from Strasbourg to Munich three times in one day, and could have traveled directly to the Park without going all the way to Munich and back.

Forgive the pun, but I was in for one hell of a ride at Europa Park! Traveling through the different countries of the theme park, I was treated to over eight hours of fun through jaw-drop inducing rollercoasters, water rides, shoot-em-ups, cart rides, train rides and any other ride you can think of! The multicultural design of the park lends itself to a multitude of European food options, with Greek, Italian, French, German, Finnish and various others available. The park was also decorated in a fun, bright and engaging manner, with Halloween being the theme during our visit in the first week of October.

The ‘France’ region of Europa Park

The Halloween theme in action at Europa Park

Clogs of Europe!

My favourite rides were ‘Blue Fire’ and ‘Silver Star’, both of which were thrilling, unbelievably high and fast rollercoasters that made me laugh, scream and smile seemingly all at once. I even went on the Silver Star twice at my friend’s bequest!

Attraction details – Europa Park

Directions: Europa Park can be reached by regional train. Consult the Deutsche Bahn website for detailed train and transport information.

Admission: All inclusive admission (entry and access to rides) for adults during the summer season is normally 42.50 euros, but as my friend is a journalist, he was able to obtain a complementary press pass for two. This made it exceptional value for me combined with my rail pass, which provided all day transport to Europa Park and back. Compared to other theme parks such as Tivoli which charge both an exorbitant entry fee and a fee per ride, Europa Park hits the sweet spot of being both affordable and interesting to a broad range of audience groups, with its Europe theme and plentiful options for food and rides.

Rating: 5/5. My friend was right – Europa Park is seriously the real deal. A must-do if you are in the vicinity.

Traveler’s tips:

• Pack some food and drink to avoid the overpriced food options at the Park.
• Get there at opening time to maximise your experience. Also try and go on a weekday to avoid the rush on weekends or public holidays.
• If you’re not the biggest fan of rides, consider taking an extreme ride followed by a gentle ride and then repeating this until you have done all the rides you are interested in
• Upon entering the Park, proceed to the middle or back of the Park to avoid the often congested lines at the front areas. There are signs clearly indicating the expected wait time for each ride.
• As you get more tired throughout the day, consider taking the provided intra-Park train service. The train departs from a central location and stops at several key ‘countries’ in the Park.

What has your experience been at Europa Park? What are your favourite theme parks inside and outside Europe?

Traveler tips and truths: Paris

Continuing on from my prior traveler tips and truths post on Helsinki, this is a mixture of insights and advice that came to me after staying for 6 days in Paris. There are quite a few things here (I’m a bit of a pedantic for detail), of which some I hope are useful. Enjoy!

Traveler truths:

• Paris is for people watching: As discussed in the list of ‘must-dos’, Paris may very well give you a great new hobby.

An interesting tourist ‘attraction’ at the Ile-St-Louis

• People are very stylish: Paris is well-known for its cutting edge fashion so the bar is set high on the street. The standard of dress is higher and more adventurous compared to the dominant laidback Australian attire, with a preference towards more formal or elegant types of clothing. This isn’t just limited to the young people – I saw some seriously cool-looking grandpas and dads walking around which made me feel inadequate and scruffy by comparison! I dress mainly for comfort while traveling so I don’t tend to bring any great threads (not that I have many at all), which did make me feel slightly out of place amongst such well-groomed and well-dressed folk.
• Parisians generally don’t wear shorts, even in warm weather: I was a little shocked to see, despite it being 20-25C for the majority of my stay in Paris, that people generally didn’t wear anything other than jeans, chinos or dress/suit pants. Upon asking a Parisian about it, I was told that shorts are generally regarded as an impolite form of dress that is not suitable for work or a meeting, and is generally only worn on vacation or by tourists. I was even told that it is almost taboo to show your legs, which I definitely found strange. It did make me self-conscious enough to wear jeans on a few occasions where I would have opted normally for shorts, but I quickly switched back after sweating it out unnecessarily. Fashion over comfort for the Parisians it seems!
• Parisians can be as rude as you’ve heard: On many occasions, I was surprised by how rude people, even those paid to provide customer service, were to me. The metro and tourist attractions proved to be a hotspot for the short-fused, annoyed and exasperated worker, which encourage me to limit my interaction with them to a bare minimum as a defence mechanism. There were many kind people in the museums and other places I visited though so it’s a bit of a mixed bag, but be prepared for some snark with your service.
• Baguettes are the coffees of Paris: Seriously, people eat baguettes for breakfast, lunch and as a snack too. They are obsessed with bread, putting things in bread, eating things with bread – you get the picture. Bakeries are on every corner, fueling this never-ending lifestyle.
• The French are a romantic people – I have never ever seen so much public affection before. People of both genders kissing each other on the cheek in greeting, couples canoodling and kissing in parks and on the street – Parisians are openly emotional and outspoken with their feelings. It can be off putting at first, but you learn to just embrace it and look away in time.
• Parisians like their wide open spaces – It is a favourite past time of the French to lay in parks for hours over a picnic lunch. More food, more people-watching. You get the picture.
  

  Parisians enjoying the Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Gardens)

• Paris is undeniably rich with culture and history – Another no brainer. The sheer volume of churches, monuments, museums and sculptures on display is a testament to the rich history of Paris. You even feel it walking down the street – the cobblestones and the street signs lend the city an old-fashioned, nostalgic and very romantic feeling.
  

  Arc de Triumph at the top of the Champs De’Lysees

• Aside from people–watching, smoking is another favoured hobby: This is quite a sad inclusion on the list but it is so evident it is impossible to disregard it. Smoke is everywhere in Paris because so many people smoke. It is so easy to passive smoke in Paris every time you walk down the street, pass a bistro or walk through a park with what felt like 1 in 3 people – of all ages – smoking. It seems to be a cool thing to do in Parisian society, and what’s sadder, is that I even saw cyclists and people who were ostensibly healthy, lighting up with gusto. Smoking always makes me feel sick, and after visiting Paris, that feeling hasn’t changed.
• Paris is expensive – You can’t be surprised by this. For me, coming from Australia, mostly everything is more expensive in Paris. Only a few things, like food from vending machines and baguettes (probably due to oversupply) are roughly in proportion with their Australian counterparts. There are cheaper places you can find to eat, but you get what you pay for. I did resort to doing some grocery shopping on my first day to soften the blow, which turned out to be a great way to save money as I managed to avoid paying for food except for 1 day of deliberate French sampling.

Traveler tips

• Buy metro pass in advance – The metro is so good in Paris it’s ridiculous not to use it. With the Paris Visite metro pass, you can get 1,3 or 5 day unlimited travel on the Paris metro, bus and RER in selected zones (chosen at purchase) so you can have peace of mind. This is literally the first thing you should get in Paris if you are going to be going around the city a lot and it is great value if you take into account the price of individual tickets. There is the weekly pass (valid from Monday to Sunday, sold on the Thursday for the following week) and the Paris Navigo pass (needs a photo taken and is generally for Paris residents) available but they both have their drawbacks and aren’t always suitable for tourists.
• Try to use service stations instead of ticket machines if you’re unsure – The ticket machines are actually very good and do have English options but if you are uncertain of anything or want to avoid being harassed by the occasional scam artist or shady character, ask for your tickets directly at the train station. Just be prepared for some staff to either not know English, be rude to you, or both.
• Avoid beggars, gypsies, scammers, and con artists: Like any big city, Paris has its share of less-than-desirable characters. There are beggars (often Romanian) in the street next to ATMs, in train stations, performance artists on the trains playing for money (and some are actually not bad and deserve the coin they get), gypsies around the Eiffel Tower asking you if you speak English who try to get you to do a survey; people selling rip-off goods at big tourist locations; and others trying to sell souvenirs and water to tourists.
• Take care of your belongings to protect against pickpockets – The metro, with its mass of people and limited space to move, is an ideal place for you to be robbed of your valuables at an unsuspecting moment. Take care of your belongings and make sure you don’t leave yourself vulnerable to being pick pocketed. I used a money bag around my waist under my clothes to be extra careful of my things, keeping my passport, wallet and room key inside. What do you know? I didn’t lose a thing. To put this into context, on the day I arrived, a friend’s friend had their passport stolen along with their money bag at a major train station. The passport was thrown into the trash, and the money bag emptied of all cash. I was also hassled at the train station by some shady characters right after I’d touched down in Paris.
• Try to take the metro in off-peak times: 9-10am and 5-7pm are typically the busiest hours for the metro so if you can, try to avoid taking it at these times to save yourself unwanted touching, sweat and jostling. It gets quite warm in the metro with everyone sucking up the oxygen so try to stay cool and calm and you should be fine.
• Get lost sometimes – Sometimes getting lost is the only way you can learn how to get around. There is a perverse satisfaction from getting lost and then having that ‘Eureka!’ moment when everything all clicks into place. The metro is well connected so you can always take the metro from wherever you do end up if you find yourself really lost.
• Take your time with the metro – if you miss your train, there is another one usually within 2-5 minutes so unless you’re in an absolute hurry, there’s no need to dash unless you like running! I admit I did run around a little but only because I was trying to fit everything in and wasted time getting lost more than a few times.
• Learn some basic French – French people, while sophisticated, do not always speak the best English and some, even at service outlets, speak no English at all! So do yourself a favour and bust out your phrasebooks to develop some basic competency. You will find your experience everywhere – in restaurants, in the metro, in shops – easier and all the more pleasant for it.
• 18e/month unlimited movie subscription – Parisians love their cinema, and really respect the work of the director. After all, they did first conceive of the auteur, and play host to the world’s most prestigious film festival in Cannes every year. Small rather than large multiplexes are dotted around the city, playing independent, foreign language and auteur cinema to the masses. I nearly fell in love with Paris right then and there. It is a great place to catch up on the latest gem by your favourite unknown director. I found out too late that there is an 18 euro per month subscription that gives you the privilege of unlimited movies! Considering a single movie costs around 7 or 8 euros, this is great value.
• Check out some free music concerts – Paris is a great place to get in touch with your musical self and with the many churches, cultural venues and parks on offer, there is almost a chance to hear some great music everywhere you go. The metro is also occasionally accompanied by budding artists trying to eke out a living impressing the daily commuters. Check out this website for a listing.
• Ask for help if you need it, even if you feel uncomfortable (Or Learn How to Read Your Train Tickets) – Being in Paris made me uncomfortable asking for help as I didn’t know much French. Having never taken a high speed train before, I was a little unsure if I was in the right seat however upon finding my seat number on the wall, I was sure I had done the right thing. My complacency ended up costing me as I mistakenly got into the wrong part of the train (correct seat number, but wrong coach number) to Munich, finding myself temporarily stranded in Strasbourg and costing myself two hours. Luckily I was still able to make it to my destination with a simple transfer at no additional fare, but I had to find a Wi-Fi source to alert a friend who would have been waiting at the station for an extra two hours on top of getting the new train. All stress one does not need while traveling. I later found out the coach numbers are indicated on the outside of the train, but it just goes to show you, that it never pays to ask for help if you’re unsure.
• Choose the ‘formule’ fixed menus for breakfast or lunch to save – In Paris, you can often find a ‘formule’ menu on offer which is a fixed price menu (either entrée + main + dessert, entrée + main or main + dessert) of set items that is often cheaper than ordering a la carte. I ordered one which would normally have costed 20 euros but was only charged 16 euros for it. So do your wallet a favour and go for the set menu, that is, if you don’t mind sacrificing some choice in the process.
  

Lunch formule (set meal of the day): Beef gazpachio with pomme frites (french fries), salad and dressing

Andy’s traveler rating – Paris

People: 3.5/5
Liveability: 4/5
Attractions & Culture: 5/5
Nature: 4.5/5
Cost of living: 3/5
Weather: 5/5
Public transport: 5/5

Overall: 30/35

Must dos in Paris

Note: This is a subjective perspective on my time in Paris, and the below list will obviously differ from person to person. I also only went to Versailles outside the Paris city areas, so take this into account as well. Links go to Trip Advisor pages.

Must dos in Paris

• Eiffel Tower (both during the day and night): The Eiffel Tower is famous for a reason, and after visiting, I know why. It is not only a feat of impressive architecture with its unique double-arched, steel-grey structure, it offers amazing brilliant views of nearly all areas of Paris. It is a great place to simply stand and enjoy the view of Paris and be in awe of what you are witnessing. There is access via an elevator and a cheaper fee for access via a set of stairs. I recommend the stairs to save money and also for the exercise! The elevator access goes to a third, higher floor than stair access (which only goes to the 1^st and 2^nd floors), however the views are the best from the second floor so you are not really missing out on anything by taking the stairs. The Eiffel Tower and Paris is like The Great Wall in China – you can’t not go if you visit. I’ve heard the views at night are amazing (unfortunately I missed out this time around) and it is something you won’t easily forget.
  

  The Eiffel Tower

• The Louvre – Another world-famous Paris attraction, The Louvre simply has to be seen. It is an unbelievably large and expansive museum containing multiple levels of sculptures, paintings, relics, artifacts and of course the famous Mona Lisa. Even if you don’t like museums as I do, you’ll find something to enjoy at The Louvre. And if you really don’t want to pay, entry is free after 6pm on Friday until its closure at 9:45pm.
• Versailles: For reasons talked about at length previously, Versailles is a triple threat of history, nature and architecture. Can’t get better than that. Make a day of it and just soak in everything.
• Luxembourg Gardens: This stunning garden in the 3^rd arrondisement is Paris’s most famous park, and it’s easy to see why. It contains beautiful fountains, pretty flora and great photo opportunities for nature lovers everywhere. There’s also often free music playing in the park as I found on the occasion I went.
  

  The magnificent Luxmbourg Gardens

• People-watching at a café: Parisians love to sit back over some food and just watch the world go by. I mean it – people-watching is a It is initially strange to comprehend from an outsider’s perspective but after trying it, it is strangely peaceful and enjoyable. Paris is bustling enough that it never gets boring, and you will enjoy seeing a variety of characters move about their daily lives for your amusement. Be sure to choose a place on a corner for an unrestricted view of the street.
• Eat cake and sweets! Paris also excels in this department and is a veritable sweettooth’s paradise. There is simply too much to eat even if you ate sweets for every meal so pick and choose to your heart’s content. Try the bakeries (“boulangeries”), specialty chocolatiers and macaron shops, and you can’t go wrong. When in Paris, eat cake, ice cream…and tarts…and macarons…and chocolate…and…palmiers…
  

  Delicious ice cream from the Ile-St-Louis (1st arrondisement)

• Have a picnic in a park: Paris has so many parks and wide open spaces, they are something of a favourite haunt to while away the afternoon. Parisians are frequently seen sporting bread, cheese, meats and wine (which can be bought at your local grocer in Paris!) in parks and picknicking with gusto. You should too. Aside from Luxembourg Gardens, the Place des Vogues near Victor Hugo’s house is another popular spot, Pont Neuf near the Notre Dame is nice and intimate and somewhere along the Seine can never go astray.
• Boulevard St Germain and The Latin Quarter – The former, a lovely winding boulevard, is full of nice shops and restaurants, and is home to its very own Melbourne-style laneway, the Andre St Commerce. The second, is the beating student centre of Paris, home to many of its universities and full of restaurants that won’t break the bank.
• The Marais – This quirky area, spanning both the 3^rd and 4^th arrondisements, is another one for those looking for something off the beaten track. It is at once the Jewish epicentre of Paris with many great felafel shops, and the gay-friendly neighbourhood of the city. Restaurants prices are generally affordable here too.
• Take a walk around the city at night – The city is a beautiful gem at night and people stay out much later than they do in Australia. So there is a very lively atmosphere to Paris, almost as if the city doesn’t sleep. Certain areas of the city come alive at night so it’s worth taking the time to discover them.

The Montmarte area near the Sacre Coeur church at night

What do you think the must dos in Paris are? Let me know in the comments below!

Pretty as a postcard in Versailles

Undoubtedly, there is plenty to do in Paris, the infamous City of Love. However, one of the best attractions to do in France isn’t in the ‘city’ of Paris at all but in fact in the regional area of Versailles. It was here that was to be my first experience in the land of the red, blue and white.

The Palace of Versailles

I joined the queue to get in (having thankfully pre-purchased my ticket online and thus avoiding the additionally long queues to buy tickets) and was inside within 10-15 minutes. There are separate entrance points to the Palace, and the Gardens (from which point Marie-Antoinette’s Chateau and the Grand Trianon can be accessed; the Chateau is a thirty minute walk from the Palace and the Grand Trianon a further walk from the Chateau). I decided on entering the Palace first, which seemed to be the prime attraction from the main entrance.

After passing through security and baggage checks, I finally entered the Palace. The Palace is a series of rooms (the Grand Apartments) set up in the style of the olden days of France. It is filled with beautiful furniture, paintings, art, chandeliers and architecture from days gone by. The style is very decadent and it is obvious the occupants of the Palace lived in luxury. The Hall of Mirrors is a highlight of the Palace, with magnificent chandeliers and wallpaper highlighting the Palace’s immense beauty. T he only downsides are that the supporting information in the rooms is in French and the available space is generally dominated by tourists, which makes it sometimes cramped and pushy when moving around.

The Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Versailles

After touring Helsinki, Stockholm and Copenhagen, I thought I had seen it all when it came to gardens and natural scenery. However, the Garden of Versailles has an uncanny ability of dwarfing the gardens in all of these places easily. Seemingly never-ending, the garden stretches for miles and miles and features a brilliant array of flowers, trees and many postcard-perfect photo opportunities.

The garden of Versailles

It takes a good few hours to explore the Gardens, Marie-Antoinette’s House, the Grand Trianon, their interiors (featuring further artwork and paintings) and surrounding buildings. It’s not really a naturally preserved feature of wonder like those in Scandinavia (it has been obviously tended to and shaped into a more commercial tourist attraction) but it is hugely impressive nonetheless. In addition, near the end of the gardens on your way out, there is a huge lake that you can use to rent a boat to row across (a favourite for the many couples in the area) or you can simply relax on the many surrounding grassy patches.

The lake at Versailles – a favourite spot for couples to row across

The Palace of Versailles

Attraction details

Name: Palace of Versailles

Directions: Versailles can be reached by using the regional train network RER. You need to take the RERB to reach Versailles. I got onto the RERB at the Invalides station, and the journey to Versailles took approximately 40 minutes each way. The station you need to get off at is Versailles Rive-Gauche (not Versailles ……) so pay attention to the stations out the window. In any case, Versailles Rive-Gauche is the last stop so you can’t really miss out. From the station, Versailles is a short 10 minute walk from the station in a north-westerly direction. We simply followed the literal hoard of tourists and sure enough, we ended up at Versailles. So you can go with your nose or follow the crowd – up to you.

Admission fee: There are different ticket types available. I purchased the Versailles Passport, which offers entry to the Palace, the Gardens, the Grand Trianon and Marie-Antoinette’s Estate for 18 euros. Entry to only the Palace is 13 euros, however the stunning gardens are free (except on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from April to October; free admission from November to March) if you don’t want to see anything else. Tickets are more expensive on these days (around 25 euros) on Tuesdays and Sundays due to a music concert that is included in the ticket price on these days so go on another day if you want to avoid getting stung. A full listing of the fare types is found here.

Rating: 5/5. Home to the beautiful Palace of Versailles, a tremendous garden, Marie-Antoinette’s Chateau and the Grand Trianon (a building of paintings, sculptures, art and more), Versailles is an essential stop for anyone visiting Paris.

Traveller’s tips:

• Arrive early to beat the crowds to get in – the Palace and Gardens open at different times, with the former opening at 9am and the latter at 8am. So if you arrive early, you can get a head start on the garden and enter the palace when everyone else is arriving, which is generally lunchtime.

• Prepurchase your ticket to avoid the line to buy the ticket – This is pretty self-explanatory. The ticket is the same price if you buy online or in person at the ticket office so there’s no excuse not to buy in advance.

• Buy your food outside Versailles: There is of course a café/restaurant in Versailles but it is overpriced and caters to unsuspecting tourists. I went instead to a cheap bakery nearby which sold an Italian style baguette for around 5 euros.
• Bring some sunscreen for a sunny day: When I went, it was a warm, sunny day of around 23-25C. I forgot my sunscreen so I walked around feeling slightly burnt all day.
• Allow the most part of a day to do Versailles – We arrived around 12pm due to getting up late and got through everything in around five and a half hours, however if we arrived earlier we probably would have had more time to savour the sights and enjoy the experience more. Inclusive of transport on the RERB each way, you should allow at least 8 hours for the whole trip. Don’t plan to do anything major afterwards as you will be tired and your legs will be sore!

Have you been to Versailles and if so, what was your experience like? Do you have other favourite palaces or gardens in Europe or elsewhere to recommend?

Castle day in Copenhagen

For my second last day in Copenhagen, we ventured out of Copenhagen to visit the Kronborg and Frederiskborg Castles. It was a mostly enjoyable experience and upheld the trend of beautiful Scandinavian architecture and nature that had been a prominent theme throughout Helsinki and Stockholm.

Kronborg Castle

First up was the Kronborg Castle in the Danish town of Helsingor. Known as the critical setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet, Kronborg is an important Renaissance monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The castle features the royal apartments, a series of rooms describing the history of Copenhagen, detailing its one-time occupation by Sweden and subsequent independence. Paintings, sculptures and artwork relate to notable figures in Danish history. There is a ballroom, a hallway and of course, a room dedicated to the history of Hamlet and its various iterations around the world. Better still, some of the rooms are interactive, with a virtual video providing a nice overview of Danish history for those wanting a cliffnotes history lesson and nothing more.

The ballroom within Kronborg Castle

There is even an additional section where you can go underground called the Casemates (‘Kasematter’) and wander the actual areas where Danish soldiers remained during long sieges or bombardments in times of war. Despite it being the middle of the day, it was quite dark and at times unnerving to be walking around in this section of the castle. I even had to use a flashlight app on my phone on occasion to avoid being completely blind at times! There was signs warning that the area was very slippery and it is filled with cobblestones, so good footwear is a must.

Other than the castle, there was a small garden area that had some nice views of the castle and a collection of museums and cafes that were unfortunately closed, it being outside of the summer season.

Attraction details

Name: Kronborg Castle

Directions: From the Central Railway Station, buy an all day regional train pass (it was 108 DKK when I bought mine). This provides unlimited travel to regional Denmark and back again so you can have piece of mind and is cheaper than buying two one-way tickets.

Admission fee: 70 DKK for entry. From the Central Railway, the station you need is Helsingor. The castle is in plain view from Holinberg and takes around 10-15 minutes walk to get to. To get into the Royal Apartments, you need to store your bags in the lockers with a 10 Danish Kroner coin (you can borrow a coin from the shop if you don’t have one on you).

Traveler’s tip: Bring a flashlight (either physical or an app on your smartphone) to provide lighting in the casemates, and wear suitable footwear for easy movement. If you’re a museum person, be sure to check out the free Maritime Museum next to the library. We stepped in for a quick browse and were immediately given a free tour of the small museum by the friendly staff member. The library next door to the Maritime Museum is another good place to keep in mind as it offers free Wi-Fi.

Rating: 3.5/5 stars

Having completed all there was to do at Kronborg Castle, we decided to deviate from our original plan of returning home by taking a few train stops to Hillerød to Frederiksborg Castle.

Frederiksborg proved to be much better (in my opinion) than Kroborg. Not only was there a beautiful castle to look at (we didn’t go inside as we had paid the 70 DKK for Kronborg and didn’t want to get slugged again by another pricey monument), the castle was adjacent to a magnificent garden space, lake, running track and a park containing many trees which were extremely pleasant and shady to walk through.

In hindsight, we both agreed that it would have been better value to have paid the entry fee for Frederiksborg instead of Kronborg in light of the adjacent garden, trees and impressive natural scenery. Oh well, there’s always next time!

The beautiful baroque gardens at Frederiksborg Castle

Frederiksborg Castle

A front view of Frederiksborg Castle and the surrounding gardens

Name: Frederiksborg Castle

Directions: A few train stops away from Helsingor and the Kronborg Castle, take the local train from Helsingor to Hilerod or get the Line E train from Copenhagen central to Hilerod. The journey from Helsingor takes around 30-40 minutes. There is clear signage near the station directing you to Frederiksborg near the station.

Admission fee: 75 DKK for adults. See the website for more information.

Traveler’s tip: Pack plenty of water and your energy to walk around the castle and the surrounding areas. Leave around half a day to see Frederiksborg Castle.

Rating: 4.5/5 stars

In summary: If you need a break from Copenhagen city and enjoy nature and history, take a visit to (preferably) Frederiksborg or Kronborg Castle.

Do you have a favourite castle in Europe? What are your thoughts on Kronborg/Frederiksborg Castle?

Hotel review: The Savoy Hotel, Copenhagen

In my second hotel review, I take aim at The Savoy Hotel in Copenhagen, ideally positioned on the main city street of Vesterbrogade.

The Savoy Hotel, Copenhagen. Source: http://copenhagencitybreaks.com

The good:

• Location right in the city centre: The hotel is located on, the busy street in Copenhagen. It is surrounded by restaurants and shops, and is a short walk from both the central railway station and the shopping district in Copenhagen. This made it incredibly easy to find from the station and simplified our trips in and out of Copenhagen.

• The buffet breakfast was tasty: There was slightly less variety in the buffet breakfast in The Savoy compared to the Best Western, but the food was tasty and fresh. There was a good selection of breads cheeses, meats, juices, tea, coffee and fruit available, and I enjoyed more than a few Danish pastries to sweeten the deal.
• Staff were friendly: Staff made the effort to smile and greet us every time we entered and left the building, which was a nice touch.
• Luggage rooms were locked: Compared to the Best Western which used an unlocked baggage room opened by a switch at reception, The Savoy’s room was opened with a key. This made me feel much safer when leaving my luggage there after checking out. Check out is at 11am.  

The not so good

• Rooms were quite small: The rooms were significantly smaller than the rooms at The Best Western. Between me and my friend, there was little room to walk around and the bathroom door, when opened, touched the side of my bed. This is apparently quite the norm in Copenhagen due to the limited space, but it isn’t a good feeling for a guest to have.
• Interiors quite drab: The rooms were quite monochrome and dull in colour, which can turn some people off. For me, it wasn’t a big deal as I just wanted somewhere to sleep but I did notice it. Copenhagen as a city is quite bland looking apart from the Nyhavn harbour and some areas of the city so I guess it is consistent to say the least.

Other comments:

• Patrons are of an older demographic: The hotel had an older demographic compared to The Best Western, which catered to a broad range of people. I felt close to the youngest person there in a place full of middle-aged and older tourists. I wasn’t uncomfortable or anything, but it does have an impact on the atmosphere. I didn’t mind as I barely spent anytime in the hotel or mingling with guests.

Overall:

The Savoy Hotel
Vesterbrogade 34, Copenhagen
00 45 33 26 75 00

Location: 5/5
Facilities/Security: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Check in/check out: 5/5
Price: 3.5/5
Overall: 4.25/5

In summary: For an ideally located hotel with good, secure service and friendly staff, you might want to try The Savoy Hotel. Just be aware that the space in the rooms isn’t the biggest and the rooms won’t set your visual taste buds alight.

Tumultuous times in Tivoli Gardens

When you’re stepping off a flight, you’re often feeling jetlagged or sluggish. You just want to get off the plane and straight to your hotel to relax and unwind. The day I arrived in Copenhagen I felt much the same. Luckily, I didn’t stay in the Savoy Hotel too long as my friend reminded me that it was the last day for the summer season at Tivoli Gardens – a garden/amusement park/shopping district hybrid.

Tivoli is quite something! Compared to amusement parks in Australia, Tivoli seemed gigantic, with its numerous rides, food outlets, shopping outlets (selling silver, jewellery, souvenirs, etc) and restaurants. There is a distinct Asian feeling to this place, with its Asian gardens and architecture. You could easily spend a whole day exploring the place, but for me and my friend, the main appeal was the rides. Note that the place really comes alive during the night, with the central concert stage often being used (a tug-of-war match was underway when we went there) and the gardens aglow in the evening making for some incredibly nice photo opportunities.

A strong Asian feeling pervades Tivoli Gardens

It costs 99 DKK to enter the Gardens, with additional fees of 1-3 tickets (costing around 25 DKK each) to go on the rides. There are also multi-ride tickets you can purchase for unlimited rides for 199 DKK. My friend and I purchased these as we worked out if you go on 3 or more rides, you are better off paying for the multi-ride ticket. And it ultimately proved to be insanely worth it!

The three rides I tried were one of the rollercoasters, Vertigo (a giant swing and spinning ride) and The Golden Tower, which drops you from a tall height. The most intense of these (for me anyway) was actually The Golden Tower due to the lurch you feel when dropped, comparable to a really sudden drop in an aircraft. The rollercoaster had its moments but was nothing unmanageable. Interestingly, Vertigo wasn’t anywhere near as stomach-churching as I thought it would be – I found it very pleasant in fact. And the views of Copenhagen from atop these rides is simply unrivalled anywhere else that I went. For a video of Vertigo, click here.  It is exhilarating, thrilling and undeniably impressive. Here’s a video from YouTuber showing what I experienced.

A major downside of this ride was that it made me feel nauseous for a good 30 minutes after getting off. This complicated things as I didn’t feel like getting on another ride while I was feeling ill, and I had no motivation to keep moving. Instead, I had to sit down and breathe deeply for around 30 minutes until I felt better. I ultimately lived to fight another day, albeit with a giant grin on my face whenever I recall those fateful moments. Me and my friend still discuss it every now and then, and have a good laugh about my ‘illness’.

Despite getting slightly sick, I highly recommend Tivoli for its one-of-a-kind rides, beautiful atmosphere and sheer abundance of leisure options for the casual traveler. I would stay away from the restaurants at Tivoli unless you want to pay the higher prices in this popular tourist site.

The Taj Mahal lookalike building at the front of Tivoli

Attraction details:

Name: Tivoli Gardens
Address: Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 København, Denmark
Directions: Tivoli Gardens is located on Vesterbrogade, which is the main city street in Copenhagen. You can’t miss it, but if you do, it’s near the fast food outlets (McDonalds, etc).
Rating:5/5. With so much on offer in terms of food, rides and entertainment, Tivoli is a must-see for anyone coming to Copenhagen, even if the rides can make you nauseous!

Hotel reviews: Best Western Hotel, Stockholm

Kicking off my irregular series of accommodation reviews, this debut piece is dedicated to the hotel I stayed at in Stockholm, a chain of hotels called the Best Western Hotel. Hopefully they prove to be of some help when you next stay abroad.

The good

• Spacious rooms – the rooms I stayed in are quite large by European standards. The hotel is divided into two buildings, one building in the same place as reception and another adjacent. We were in the adjacent building. The rooms are accessed via a pass card, which also activates the lifts.

• The buffet breakfast was tasty and offered excellent variety – As I arrived on a Friday, the buffet breakfast for Saturday and Sunday operated from 7:30 – 11am, which allowed plenty of time to get a good feed before going on my travels. The buffet breakfast had a very generous variety of meats, cheeses, vegetables, breads, juices, coffees, teas, eggs and more. I particularly liked the local touch of having two varieties of herring available for sampling. I worried about the cost of purchasing the included buffet, but it proved to be incredibly convenient and economical. It made things so much easier to not have to worry about breakfast each day, especially when we could eat as much as we wanted.
• Staff exceptionally friendly – A hotel is meant to have excellent customer service, but there is good and then there is excellent. I broke a glass during the buffet breakfast and the staff member quickly cleaned it up, no questions asked. Staff were cheerful and friendly, and always willing to help.
• Mineral water included – The room came with complementary mineral water, which I gladly took advantage of. Surprisingly tasty and refreshing!

The not so good

• Late check in time – Check in is only offered from 3pm onwards, however we arrived into Stockholm at 11am. This meant that we had to drop our bags into the luggage room and then explore the city for around 4 hours before coming back to the hotel. This wouldn’t normally be a bad thing, except for the unlocked luggage room we were forced to use (see below). Check out is at 12pm.

• Unlocked luggage rooms – The luggage room to store our bags is unlocked by a switch at reception. However, during the day time it was unlocked so anyone could really enter the room and rummage through people’s luggage. This was disconcerting to say the least, but there wasn’t really anything I could do about it in the situation.

• The location – The hotel is slightly far from the city centre, around a 15 minute walk from the central railway station. For domestic flights this would be okay, but for an international flight, I did start to feel the pinch lugging around my 20kg worth of suitcase luggage and carry on backpack.

• The room safe malfunctioned slightly – I chose to use the in-room safe to keep my passport and laptop safe. Unfortunately, there was a malfunction with the coding system so the safe wouldn’t open on one occasion. This required me having to call reception and have them open the safe. Staff took around 5 minutes to come to my room, and a further 20-30 minutes to open the safe. Worryingly, the safe was opened by a key belonging to a different room’s safe, which does not seem too promising from a security point of view

Overall:

Best Western Hotel, Stockholm
Döbelnsgatan 17
Stockholm, Sweden

Location: 4/5
Facilities/Security: 3/5
Service: 4/5
Food: 4.5/5
Check in/check out: 3.5/5
Price: 4/5
Overall: 3.83/5

In summary: If you’re looking for a relatively affordable hotel with great service and an included buffet breakfast, you can’t go wrong with Best Western. However, be warned that your luggage isn’t necessarily secure if you arrive a few hours prior to check in and that the room safe may in fact be ‘too safe’.